Why Chiang Mai, Thailand?

I am often asked why I go to a certain country to live and I never really know how to answer the question without sounding like an idiot.  Let me introduce you to my thought process on choosing a place to live - it's really quite simple.  I see a photograph I like, it tends to be in National Geographic Traveller or something of the sort, and I say to myself "That's where I want to go".  I'm never content with just looking at a photo because that's all a photo is - a photograph.  There's much and more to seeing a place than just seeing it.  You experience it.  You live it.  You embrace it.



Gathering at MaeJo University for Loi Krathong

This is what brought me to Chiang Mai, Thailand.  A few years ago, I can't quite recall when, I saw a photograph of thousands of paper lanterns in the sky.  I thought it was so beautiful that I had to see it for myself!  I had never really given Thailand any thought before that and definitely had never heard of this Chiang Mai place.  All I knew of Thailand was that Bangkok sounded like a place I didn't want to go to (I still haven't been) and Phuket was where Jack got his mysterious tattoo on LOST.  I started reading more about Chiang Mai and decided it sounded like a nice fit for me, a smaller-than-Bangkok city near the mountains full of monks and locals who sell their handmade fare.  Boom.  Sold.  Especially after seeing more of those lantern photos. 



Monks chanting and praying



I've been in Chiang Mai since February and have finally experienced the lanterns!  Holy shit, it's one of the most beautiful experiences of my life!  It's the festival of Loi Krathong, which I still don't fully understand.  Loi Krathong is more of a "making peace for polluting the water" holiday and on the actual Loi Krathong day, thousands of "krathongs" are made from banana leaves and bread, filled with flowers and candles and set in the river to ask for forgiveness.  It is also a chance to pray and wash away your sins (depending on who you ask - I've had many different answers for what Loi Krathong is all about).  So, I still haven't worked out how the lanterns fit in to all of this.  None-the-less, coming to Thailand and living in Chiang Mai has been worth it for this one experience.



Parker lighting our ground lamp





Ground lamps lit and ready!

Lighting our lantern

At MaeJo University, they do the "big release" of the lanterns.  People come together and gather around.  An announcement is made to sit down at one of the ground lamps and silence is observed.  At nightfall the ceremony begins.  Monks begin to chant and pray and a sort of peace blankets everyone around.  This continues for about an hour, then we are invited to light the ground lamps.  More praying, more chanting.  The air is alight with the soft glow of firelight.  After another prayer, everyone is asked to open their lanterns and light them.  This is done by holding a fuel cell over the ground lamp and once on fire, hot air fills the lantern.  At once, everyone makes wishes and releases their lanterns in the sky!  All the people are extremely happy and cheerful, clapping and waving goodbye to their lanterns.  This process goes off in several waves as everyone has more than just one lantern to light, continuing this spectacle of peace and happiness over and over, again and again. 




Waiting for the lanterns to fill with hot air!

Make a wish and RELEASE!!
A similar picture to this is what brought me to Chiang Mai!

It is truly a beautiful, peaceful, and wonderful experience and I am extremely happy that it brought me to Chiang Mai.

If you're ever interested in experiencing Loi Krathong, the festival is held on the full moon of the 12th lunar month of the Thai calendar - typically that falls in November.  Chiang Mai (and I've also heard Mae Hong Son) is the place to be as this festival is more of a Lanna celebration (northern Thailand).  At MaeJo University, they hold the big lantern release - once for the locals, which is a free celebration, and once for tourists - which is not free (I've heard it costs upwards of $80 admission fee...not sure if that is correct as it sounds absurdly expensive!!).  I attended the local celebration, which I'm sure is less crowded than the one for the tourists.  Lanterns are 100 Baht (about $3) and free food and water are available on the grounds.  I encourage you to attend the Loi Krathong celebrations in Chiang Mai at least once in your life...I'm so happy I did - and they're not even over yet as the full moon is on Wednesday!  Yippee for meeee :)

Time for Round 2 :)

So if ever in the future you want to know why I am travelling to a country - Ask not Why, but What picture did I see?


Happy Lovely Trails!


UPDATE -
I was able to verify the price of the "big release" of lanterns for the tourists night: a hefty 3,000 baht ($100)!!!  Utterly ridiculous.  I'm definitely glad I knew about the locals/free night.

I also found out that the lantern release is relatively new to Loi Krathong, only having it done for less than 10 years.  My Thai boss does not agree with this new tradition which makes me wonder if all the Thai's feel the same way.  I've come to learn that ancient traditions and holidays have lost their luster for the sake money.  The pure fact that there are two "big release" nights - one free for the locals and one absurdly expensive night for the tourists proves my feelings.  I spent the actual Loi Krathong night (on Wednesday) at Tha Pae Gate for the parade and ended up leaving early.  It was overrun with pushy tourists and a bit dull after the beauty of Saturday night's shenanegans.  I'm so thankful I was able to spend last Saturday night in the company of friendly Thai's and not surrounded by the hoards of tourists that take over Chiang Mai in November.



A beautiful sight!