Top 12 of Chiang Mai

I was thinking about coffee this morning and realized I never wrote a Top 10 Chiang Mai blog.  Why did I realize this while thinking about coffee, you ask?  Because the greatest cup of coffee I've ever had was in Chiang Mai...and I could seriously go for that spicy, glorious cuppa Joe right about now!

So, for any of you travellers or adventurers out there that are heading to Chiang Mai, here is my Top 12 (yep, you lucky dog...I added 2 extra!) of Chiang Mai, in no real particular order...

12. Wat Pan Tao

Wat Pan Tao is one of the only teak wood temples in Chiang Mai, and although it's small, it's stunning!  The first time I stumbled on this temple, the sun was setting and there was this beautiful golden Buddha nestled in a patch of colourful tulips, surrounded by a koi-filled stream.  Many of the travel sites suggest visiting Wat Phra Singh just down the road, but Phra Singh is full of tourists and in my opinion, isn't nearly as beautiful as Wat Pan Tao.  Wat Pan Tao is easy to find in the Old City and it's right next to Wat Chedi Luang, another really lovely - and popular - temple (make sure to walk around the back of Chedi Luang!).

The beautiful garden of Wat Pan Tao

11. Warorot Market

Warorot Market is open 24/7 and if you need it, they have it.  Seriously.  If you need clothes, food, fruit/vegetables, teas, nicknack's, toiletries, furniture, ceramics...really, they have everything.  And the best part is?  It's the cheapest place in town!  You'll find the same clothing and nicknack's at the Night Bazaar and Sunday Walking Street for 3-5 times the price because those markets are chock FULL of tourists asking to get ripped off.  Warorot is always crowded with the locals, it's not touristy so you might be stared at, but the place is a bargain hunter's gem!

The chaotic and wonderful Warorot Market - this doesn't even convey the size of this market

10. Food Market at Chiang Mai Gate (or North Gate)

The food in Thailand is just oh-so-amazing and I will take street food over restaurant food any day.  Street food tastes better and is a lot cheaper than the latter.  There are many street food markets around Chiang Mai, but this one in particular has the Cowboy Hat Lady.  I couldn't tell you the name of her stall if I wanted to, but everyone in town knows the Cowboy Hat Lady.  Every night she's there making the BEST roasted pork with rice I've ever had.  Throw that down with a soft-boiled duck egg and this chili vinaigrette sauce...oh damn, my mouth is watering with memories of that delicious plate of food.  What makes it even better?  It's less than $1. 

Make sure you save room for dessert, though.  Just two stalls down from the Cowboy Hat Lady is the stall for beatoey...mouth watering rice pudding balls in warm coconut soup.  Hot damn, it's time for a wee vacation to Chiang Mai, methinks!

9. Scootin' the Samoeng Loop

Map of the Mae Sa Valley - Samoeng Loop

Sometimes, you just need to get out of town!  It's easy enough to do, just rent yourself a motorbike and hit the road.  Once you're out of the city, the Samoeng Loop takes you around Doi Suthep mountain on a peaceful, quiet road.  If you drive without any stops, the route will take around 2-3 hours (if I'm remembering correctly...).  I, however, made lots of stops and spent a good 5-6 hours enjoying the ride.  Stop off at one of the many waterfalls (I enjoyed the Mae Sa waterfall), or the elephant camps, Tiger Kingdom, the monkey show, snake show - all of which I passed up...I'm not a fan of animal exploitation, but if it tickles your fancy, they're all there along the route!  It's a beautiful ride, even when going in the height of the pollution season of Chiang Mai, which I don't really recommend because there is a LOT of smoke - try going between April-January.  Read more about the Samoeng Loop here.

Overlooking the (smokey) Samoeng forest

8. Lady Boy Cabaret Show - Night Bazaar

Lady Boy's are such an iconic part of Thailand. Thailand is one of those countries that is very open and accepting of anyone's sexuality - take note, Russia! The absolute first Thai that I met was a lady boy...she picked me up from the airport. I had absolutely NO idea that "she" was really a "he". She was absolutely gorgeous and I still find it hard to believe she was a dude. Anyways, I digress. There is a free (when you purchase a tasty beverage) Cabaret Show, every night (save for Sunday) at 9:30pm in the Night Bazaar. Combine glitz, glam, glitter, feather boas, stilettos, with lady boys lip-syncing pop music - like Whitney Houston, songs from Grease, Britney Spears, and you've got yourself a rollin' good time! I guarantee you will laugh your ass off. The lip-syncing is terrible, but that just makes it even better. Also, if you're a dude in the audience, prepare to get some Lady Boy lovin' during the hour long show! You're welcome.

P.S. If you don't want to purchase a tasty beverage, entrance is 200 baht - roughly $6. It's cheaper to buy a drink.

Lady Boy's of the Cabaret!

7. Saturday Walking Street

The Saturday Walking Street is the lesser known sister of the Sunday Walking Street, and much more pleasant in my eyes.  It has more or less of the same stuff as the Sunday Walking Street, but it also has more authentic crafty items.  It's also along the silversmith's road, so there is a lot more jewelry and silver carvings available.  It's not as big as the Sunday Walking Street, but I feel the Sunday market is just repetitive - you see the same things throughout the market.  The Saturday Walking street is still quite big and really, it's just more authentic feeling - and cheaper.

P.S. Stop by Wat Srisuphan while there - the Silver Temple!

6. Chiang Mai Women's Prison

Tired from all of your adventures?  Need a relaxing, world famous Thai massage?  Well then, look no further than the ladies of the women's prison!  They will give you the massage of your life!  It's a great rehabilitation program for incarcerated women due to be released within 6 months.  Read all about getting a prison massage here.

5. Good Morning, Chiang Mai

Craving a damn good American breakfast?  Look no further than Good Morning, Chiang Mai.  A gorgeous, retro and rustic cafe in the heart of the Old City, which makes you feel like you're out in the middle of the countryside!  Enjoy your breakfast or lunch inside, outside, or up in their loft.  I would sit there for hours and just read a book and drink coffee.  They've had a live band playing a time or two while I was there.  And their food?  Best damn American breakfast you'll find in Chiang Mai.  Might I recommend their buttermilk pancakes and sausage?  Holy shit, they will change your life.

The pancakes that will change your life.

4. The Lost Book Shop

Need a new book to read?  I recommend the Lost Book Shop - a used book shop (most of them are used in Chiang Mai - at least I don't recall seeing any new book shops) run by this awesome Irish dude.  LBS has a great selection of books, and if they don't have what you're looking for, they'll call up their sister book shop, Backstreet Books just down the road.  One of the workers there, Joy, is just about as lovely of a person as you can get.  I had been looking for months and months for the Game of Thrones series - in ALL of the bookshops around Chiang Mai - when Joy said she would lend me her personal copy of the books.  I couldn't believe she would trust a complete, foreign stranger like that!  She brought the first book for me the next day and told me to text her when I was done...she would bring the next book for me the day after I messaged her so I could trade them out.  She become one of my greatest friends in Chiang Mai.  Need a book?  Go to the Lost Book Shop.

3. Loi Krathong at Maejo University

Lanterns of Loi Krathong

I saw a beautiful picture of floating lanterns in National Geographic Traveller and decided I needed to see that place for myself.  That is what took me to Chiang Mai - Loi Krathong.  If you want to experience Loi Krathong, head out to the "big release" of the lanterns at Maejo University - which actually has NOTHING to do with Loi Krathong - a giving-thanks/ask-for-forgiveness-to-the-river/water-gods holiday.  Read my full blog about Loi Krathong here. 

2. Songkran

A festival I had NO prior knowledge of before going to Chiang Mai.  Songkran celebrates the Thai New Year and Chiang Mai is the place to be in Thailand!  What starts as a cleaning of the Buddha statues with a sprinkling of water turns into an all-out, city-wide, 5 day water fight!  Read about Songkran here.  (The photos in that blog really do not convey the madness that is Songkran!)

1. The Bird's Nest Cafe

And finally, the Bird's Nest Cafe!  The reason for starting this blog, back to that cup of coffee I was thinking of!  The Bird's Nest is another gem of a cafe that I unfortunately only discovered in my last few months in Chiang Mai.  It's a hippie'd out organic cafe, that comes with a hammock and great food made from super fresh and organic ingredients!  Their food is good (although I prefer Good Morning's buttermilk pancakes), but it was their coffee that kept me coming back for more!  Order up the Bird's Nest coffee and your life will change.  It's made from an Arabica coffee and blended with four different spices including cardamon, star anise, cinnamon, and (I think) nutmeg and served in a french press.  Add some packed brown sugar and milk - coconut if you like - and prepare yourself to be high on coffee!  No, really...it's strong!  You can easily spend the day just chillin' out, reading, eating, drinking...of which I did, many times!  It can be a little difficult to find, check out their website for directions!

Happy Trails!

P.S. If you need a great place to stay, call my friend Stephen and his wife King!  I lived in one of their apartment buildings (Sethee Court) for the last 5 months of my time in Thailand...they rent out rooms for daily rates and long-term, and they're AWESOME!  Check out their website here.

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat - a photo blog

It's been just over a year since I set foot in, and fell in love with, Cambodia.  My friend and I were only in Siem Reap for four days, but it was enough to steal my soul...hook, line, and sinker!  Funny thing is, I didn't even want to visit Cambodia - I only went as my friend from home was visiting me in Thailand and wanted to go.  (I'm kind of discovering that the countries I really didn't have a desire to visit have ended up being my favourite places - most recently, Japan - maybe that's due to not having any expectations for these places?  Hmm...motivation to visit more, methinks!)  The four days we spent in Cambodia left me wanting more.  I want to know more about these beautiful people who wear heartfelt smiles, and are genuinely friendly - and about their gorgeous country.

Maybe I'll write more about my experience another time - for now, I still want to treasure it for myself - so until then, here's a wee photo blog of my wonderful experience in Siem Reap and Angkor.

The Original Bat Mobile - Pub Street, Siem Reap
©RacePhotography

Monks walking around the massive complex that is Angkor Wat
©RacePhotography

Angkor Wat silhouette
©RacePhotography

On our way to the faces of Bayon
©RacePhotography

Little tykes in the Bayon
©RacePhotography

One of the many faces of the Bayon
©RacePhotography

One of the many beautiful temples at Angkor
©RacePhotography

Doors in doors in doors
©RacePhotography

Another breath-taking temple of Angkor
©RacePhotography



Taken back by the jungle - Ta Phrom. Just, wow.
©RacePhotography

Angkor Wat
©RacePhotography

Hungry little guy at Angkor Wat
©RacePhotography

Angkor Wat temple carvings
©RacePhotography

A drive through the countryside can give you a unique peek into the lives of the Cambodia people
©RacePhotography

The floating village of Kampong Phluk
©RacePhotography

A curious face in the floating village of Kampong Phluk
©RacePhotography
 

If you like my photography, check out my website and what I have for sale with Art for Conservation - Race Photography.  I also have a blog about AFC here, although I've added more pieces since writing it.

Also if you're interested, checkout my full blog about the floating village of Kampong Phluk - Rollin' on a River.

Happy Trails!

A Horse With No Name

I've been on a diet since July.  I hopped on the Herbalife train and I'm enjoying it so far.  Without being very strict with it, I've lost 12lbs in about two and a half months.  I know it would be more if I were more strict, but hey, I fully admit that I'm lazy.

Anyways, my Herbalife nutritionist guy has sort of become my therapist.  I visit him every two weeks to check on my progress and stock up on product.  Our visits usually last a good hour and half - we just talk about life and he tells me about Korean culture.

The main reason for finally kick starting losing weight was for my ankle.  This last month, I've really struggled with what's been going on.  I've been to specialists, had X-rays and an MRI, all of which have shown that my ankle was fractured during my accident last year and chronic arthritis is settling in like an unwelcome squatter taking up residence in my bones and joints.  Arthritis is a dickhead.  The orthopedic surgeon says I need surgery to remove the joint and fuse my bones together, rendering my ankle immobile for the rest of my days and always walk with a limp.  For sure I'm getting a second and third opinion because I refuse to believe that in this day and age of technology, that is my only option. 

I told this to my Herblife guy and he's such a positive person, he told me this Chinese story of Sae Ong Ji Ma.

"Sae Ong" means "old man" and "Ji Ma" means "the horse belongs", so relatively, Sae Ong Ji Ma means "the horse that belonged to the old man".

Sae Ong Ji Ma

Once there was an old man who owned a strong and powerful horse.  One day, the horse was gone, it had run away.  The old man's neighbors came to visit and said how sorry they were that the old man lost his horse.  The old man replied humbly, saying there was no need to apologize because you never know what will happen.

A few weeks later, the horse returned to the old man, accompanied by a strong female horse.  Now the old man had two strong horses.  The old man's neighbors came to congratulate him on his new acquisition.  The old man replied that there is no need for congratulations because you never know what will happen.

A while after that, the old man's son was riding the new female horse when he fell from the horse.  The son broke both of his legs.  The old man's neighbors came by to offer their condolences to which the old man replied they weren't necessary because you never know what will happen.

Two years later, there was a war.  Many young men fought in the war and lost their lives, but not the old man's son.  He couldn't fight in the war because of his injured legs, therefore his life was saved from the war.

The moral of the story is that you shouldn't be too sad when something bad happens and alternatively, not too happy when something good happens.  Sae Ong Ji Ma is the Chinese "everything happens for a reason".  It demonstrates how life gives us our ups and downs...good things happen, bad things happen, good, bad, good bad...like waves rolling in from the ocean.  We just have to go with it and learn.

I apply this to my situation and I know it could be much, much worse.  It happened, there's nothing I can do to change that, I can only move forward.  Forward is the only way to go!

Happy Onwards and Upwards Trails!

Here's a tune that really has nothing to do with this blog, other than it being about a horse.

When You Feel Like an Ocean Being Warmed by the Sun

Fresh off the plane from Japan (well, fresh by a week - to be honest, I started writing this blog fresh off the plane, but was too exhausted to finish it), I was reminded over the last five days of what I really love about travelling.

Despite what I feel a lot of my friends think about my life living abroad, my life is just like yours - except for the fact that I live in Korea.  I have a job that I work hard at.  I live in a basic apartment.  I pay bills, etc, etc.  Trying to save money, I rarely get out these days.  Living in England for four years put me in major credit card debit and living in Thailand did nothing to help me get out of it...it actually made it worse.  Add my student loans on top of that and this world traveller is living paycheck to paycheck.  Although I often write about travelling and visiting places, I rarely go on proper vacations.  In fact, I haven't been on vacation since last September when my friend and I went to Cambodia. 

Given the fact that I sat on my arse during my week long summer holiday from work (due to finances and pure laziness), and given the fact that I need surgery, I decided to bugger off and head to Japan for Chuesok (Korea's version of Thanksgiving) since the country basically shuts down for three days.

Here are a few things that I was reminded of that I love about travelling.

First, I really love the smell of an airport.  It's like the smell of a new car, or the smell after a refreshing rainfall, or the smell of fresh cut grass, or the sweet smell of a puppy's breath.  It's unique and lovely.  An airport, to me, smells of leather and adventure.  It's delicious.  (For the record, I really hate it when people use the term "delicious" to describe something as "delicious" that's not food, but really, I had to use it in this case and annoy myself).

Micro Machines...remember these little guys?

I always prefer to have a window seat when I fly for two reasons: The view and to have something to lean next to that's not my fellow passengers.  I also always think about the Wedding Singer when I fly, how Glenn never sits on the aisle seat because the flight attendants always bang his elbows with the drink cart...and how he obviously didn't love Julia (Gulia) enough to give up the window seat so she could look out the window on her first plane ride to Vegas to tie the knot.  Anyways, I digress.  My point is, there is this moment during takeoff that's magical to me.  It only last for about 30 seconds to a minute.  One moment you're on the ground, where everything looks as it really does.  The next moment, you look down and you're staring at a Micro Machines version of the world.  Everything that was its normal size is now cute and miniature.  Cars, trucks and buildings turn into toys and people all but disappear.  I love it.

(In case you didn't get my Wedding Singer reference...here you go!)

There's also this moment, when you're standing at the platform, waiting for the subway to come.  In the summer, it's hot and sticky, there's generally no breeze since, well, subways are underground.  There's no fresh air and it's stuffy, sometimes it feels like you're waiting ages for the subway to get there.  Then you feel it...A slight push of the air that starts off ever so light, but gradually increases into a wonderful breeze that means the subway is approaching.  Then woooooosh!  The subway arrives and you're on your way to your next adventure! 

There are also these moments of clarity when you travel.  You're either completely lost or can't read a thing, trying to figure out where you are on your English map while reading non-English signs.  Then something looks familiar and you've figured it out!  I always feel this enormous sense of pride and accomplishment when that happens.  The beginning of something new is always daunting, but as I've learned, the end result is brilliance.  It's actually one of the reasons why I prefer to travel alone, I feel more accomplished when I've done it by myself rather than when I've had help.  I like having a travel buddy every now and then, but I also love being solo...I'm just better at it.

These are the things that make me "feel like an ocean being warmed by the sun."

There's so much more about travel that I love, but these are a few little things that I was reminded of last week in lovely Japan. 

What are the little things that you love about travel?

Happy Trails!

Here's a Simple Song for simple things...(and the 'ocean' quote)

Say "Cheese!"

Just in case you can't tell by my blog posts, I am very passionate about photography! You also might not know that I sell some of my favourite prints through an organization called Art For Conservation. AFC is really great organization which brings together two of my passions in one, lovely package: art and conservation ;-) Being a member of AFC means that when a piece of my art work sells, a portion of the profits is donated to a conservation charity of my choice. It's a win-win for everyone!

Over the last year, I have completely re-vamped my photography collection for sale, choosing with special care images that I love from my time living in Asia. From January 2012 I was living in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Sixteen months later, I made a move and am now enjoying living in a suburb of Seoul, South Korea.

As I mentioned, a portion of my profits are donated to a conservation charity of my choice. In addition to photography, I have a deep love for the ocean, beaches and surfing. Therefore, my chosen organization to donate to is the Surfrider Foundation. Surfrider is an organization dedicated to protecting our world's beautiful beaches and oceans! You can read more about the organization and what they do here.

If you're as awesome as I think you are and want to help out the Surfrider Foundation (and a starving artist!), you can buy works from my collection with Art For Conservation here!

These are the photographs that are available so far - please note: The watermark will NOT show on purchased images. I hope you enjoy them! Love Art. Be Green :-)

 

From Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea

Seoul Rooftops

From Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, South Korea

Palace Door

From Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat

From Wat Srisuphan, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Buddha Hand

From Angkor Wat, Siam Reap, Cambodia

Dragonfly Sunset

From Chiang Mai, Thailand (available from September 20.2013)

Golden Buddha Hand

From Chiang Mai , Thailand

Loi Krathong

From Wat Pan Tao, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Pan Tao Buddha

From the Royal Flora, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Pink Frangi's

From the Royal Flora, Chiang Mai, Thailand

White Frangi's

From Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Temple Carving

Just a note, my prints are only available on either Hahnemuhle Bamboo paper (for colour prints) or Premier Art Fine Smooth paper (for black and white/sepia prints).  I don't offer prints on canvas as they are not as high quality and do not last as long.

Happy Trails!

"The time has come", the Walrus said...

One of the great things I love about Korea is the super lightening fast speed of the Internet.  Something weird to love and simple, I know, but after dealing with shitty Internet in Thailand for 14 months, this is pretty awesome...Especially considering football season started yesterday.

This isn't a blog about traveling or Korea.  I haven't been in the mood to talk about all-things travel lately (although I am going to Japan in a week and a half) and I've been insanely busy with the end of one term, beginning of another term, dealing with my shitty ankle (which, yes, I said I wouldn't bitch about anymore), and focusing on losing weight.  This is a blog about the Denver Broncos.  So if you were expecting the former, you can stop reading now and I won't be offended.

I've been a Broncos fan since the day I came screaming into this world.  Not since we let go of Brian Griese in 2002 have I been so hopeful as when we picked up Peyton Manning last season.  Last season, I saw again, my Denver Broncos from 1996-1999 forming...a team with the possibility of dancing the Big Dance.  I wasn't expecting us to have a Super Bowl victory last year, but that playoff loss in January against the Baltimore Ravens literally broke my heart.  Re-watching it, there were so many little mistakes that we just handed Baltimore that Vic Lombardi trophy on a silver platter.  Since that day, all I've wanted was revenge.  And REVENGE I got.

I've been waiting 8 long months for football to start up again because in my eyes, there are two seasons: Football season, and the rest of the year.  When they announced that Denver would be hosting Baltimore for the opening kickoff game of the 2013 season - due to a Baltimore Orioles scheduling conflict, I couldn't wait!!  About two or three weeks ago, they hoisted up a banner of Peyton Manning....and Joe Flacco on the outside of Sports Authority field.  That was some coarse salt in that still-very-fresh January wound.  It sent waves through Colorado...firing up every Bronco fan from here to Tim-buk-too (and Korea!). 

I purchased the NFL package during pre-season, set my calendar with alarms on my phone for the start of every game (many of them beginning at 5:30am here) and donned my Orange #18.  I started the countdown for September 5th.  Thursday. Night. Football.  Revenge time.  Due to the time difference, Thursday Night Football is actually Friday Morning Football in Korea.  When I went to bed Thursday night, it literally felt like Christmas Eve.  And not like Christmas Eve now, but like Christmas Eve when I was a kid.  Instead of dreaming about sugar plums dancing in my head, I was actually dreaming about Bronco players...I kid you not.  I was that excited for this game.  And for the start of the season. 

Unfortunately, due to lightening, the game was postponed by a good 30 minutes (c'mon, you're killing me here!!), which in turn made me miss the last 12 minutes of the game because I had to get to work.  But luckily enough, the Broncos had a good, cushy lead that, although I hate to walk away from a game, I was confident in our victory.  Peyton Manning had a historical game.  Tying the NFL record of 7, yes SEVEN touchdown passes (which hasn't been done in 44 years) and threw for 462 yards and was 27 of 42.  Dammit, that was a great game - one of those games I will always remember.  To come back from that January loss...well, revenge sure tastes sweet for breakfast! 

Here's to the 2013 Denver Broncos and bless my super fast lightening speed Internet in Korea for allowing me to watch the games live, in all their HD glory.

And from the Peyton's Place Facebook page...

I love you Peyton.  Wes.  Eric.  Champ.  Von.  Yes.  I love each and every one of my Broncos!

Gyeongbokgung Palace - A photo blog

About a month ago, I headed to Gyeongbokgung Palace to explore. 

There are five palaces dotted around Seoul, Gyeongbokgung is considered the "Northern Palace" due to its proximity compared with the others.  Gyeongbokgung was destroyed during the Japanese Invasion from 1592-1598, but was later beautifully restored to its original state.

Here's my photographic account of exploring the grand Gyeongbokgung Palace in the heat of the Korean summer.

Gyeongbokgung - a palace in the city

Fierce palace guardian

 



Palace guard inspection

 

Changing of the guards

Roof detail

Lots of beautiful and quirky doors

Couple of chit-chatters, trying to beat the heat

My favourite of the day - rooftops

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you'd like to explore the Gyeongbokgung Palace, just head to Gyeongbokgung Palace Station, Seoul Subway Line 3 (Exit 5).  Tickets are 3,000won ($3.00) for the day.  Or you can purchase a 4-palace ticket for 10,000won.  This will get you into Changdeokgung Palace, Changgyeonggung Palace, Deoksugung Palace, and Gyeongbokgung Palace, good for one month after purchase.

Happy Trails!